Bellingham Foamwars Smithing Rules

                                       ..........................About the Smith Guild..........................
                                           ..........................Weapon Checking..........................
                                       ..........................Equipment Specifications..........................
                                             ..........................Misc. Smith Rules..........................
                                                ..........................Smith Ranks..........................
                                           ..........................To Become A Smith..........................

 

                                          ..........................About the Smith Guild..........................

The Smith Guild is comprised of all the approved equipment craftspeople participating in our community. They are ranked by the happenstance of the learning process and charged with maintaining and servicing our equipment standards. Towards this end a Smith is required on every team and field-wide equipment checks are performed regularly. Please bring your equipment to a field smith for inspection before using it.

The equipment standards of our group have been researched, tried, developed and discussed to a vote. While we seek perpetual improvement we do not take change lightly. Each ruling made has taken into consideration the general community impact as well as the in-game impact it entails. We have taken both our current and potential future participants into consideration. While we don't claim responsibility for the equipment or your safety, we still have standards and rules, which exist in part to encourage safety. So if you have a question or suggestions please bring it someone who wears the gray band of a smith, they wear those bands for you.

You are not advised to use weapons that you find hard to lift or swing. It is difficult to control comparatively large weapons and can cause harm to both you and other fighters.

..........................Weapon Checking..........................

1: New equipment must be presented to two Journeyman-Ranked Smiths for qualification.
2: An apprentice cannot disqualify a new weapon a journeyman has approved.
3: Any weapon that passes general safety rules, but which has some reason against its use on the field, must have a majority ruling of smith council against it.
4: No journeyman smith has any more power than any other journeyman smith.
5: Checking a weapon should not cause damage to the weapon in any form. This includes permanent marks in the weapon when looking for a mushroom cap or PVC. You should not see thumb imprints in a weapon.
6: Maintenance checks happen after opening council, before clans. These checks may be performed by any Smith of Apprentice Rank or higher. Equipment disqualified during these checks must be re-qualified as though it was new.

-Steps to checking a weapons-

1.Check weapon over for general tape and foam damage. This includes tears and overly worn tape.
2.Check Foam for signs of being “Blown out”, this is when then foam degrades to a point of no longer protecting from the hard core.
(NOTE: Foam blow out is most common at the blades striking tip, mid blade, or short blade as these are the points used most in combat)
 3.Check weapons twist to make sure the foam is properly secured to the core by going over the blade with thumb and forefinger and twisting blade.
4.Test weapon tips for core edges.
(NOTE: Weapon must have a proper end-caps to prevent the core edges from being detectable. Side stints can also help prevent the core from being felt)
5.Check any freestanding foam structure such as cross guard or ax/hammer heads or hooks for signs of degrading.
6.Check blade for softness, this is easy to do by hitting yourself in the leg or arm with the weapon. If weapon is to long to effectively hit yourself you can ask for a smith to volunteer to help.
7.Check the stabbing tip of weapon for softness and give. A tip should never be completely solid, solid tips have no give and unless properly made may not meet the softness requirements for stabbing tips. The easiest way to test a weapon tip is to ether stab yourself or another smith who has volunteered to help.

..........................Equipment Specifications..........................

                What we use and Where to find it
The Basic List of Supplies:

    1)    Scissors or other cutting utensil
            WHY: For cutting tape and foam
            WHERE: Fabric Stores, Hardware Stores

    2)    Pressure Cutters or Hack-Saw
            WHY:    To cut the core material with
            WHERE:  Hardware Stores

    3)    Measuring Tape
            WHY:  To measure with.
            WHERE:  Fabric Stores, Hardware Stores

    4)    Permanent Markers
            WHY:  To mark measurements on materials with
            WHERE:  Department stores

    5)    PVC PIPE  (½” – 1” PVC SCH 40 400(+) PSI)
            WHY:  We use it for the “core” because it is light, can be shaped, inexpensive,
                it has a good potential life span and it breaks comparatively cleanly.
            WHERE:  Hardware Stores (Plumbing Section)

    6)    Tubes of PVC Pipe Insulation at least 1/2” thick.
            WHY:  This is the standard foam we use for padding our equipment
            WHERE:  Hardware Stores (Plumbing Section)

    7)    Electrical Tape, Hockey Tape, Grip Tape or other...
            WHY:  For the grip section
            WHERE:  Hardware Stores, Sports Stores

    8)    Cloth or Duck Tape
            WHY:  To cover the foam and protect it from damage
            WHERE: Hardware Stores, Fabric Stores

    9)    Duck Tape or Duct Tape or Cloth Tape
            WHY:   To construct equipment with or mark armor, it is our “metal”
            WHERE:  Hardware Stores, Fabric Stores

    10)    Velcro
            WHY:  For shields/armor and attaching equipment to shields/armor
            WHERE: Fabric Stores

    11)    “Block” or “Mattress” Foam
            WHY:  For use in shields, armor, and weapons
            WHERE:  Hardware Stores

    12)    “Rolled Camp Mats”
            WHY:  For shield surfaces
            WHERE:   Camping Supply Stores

    13)    Sleds, Plastic Garbage Can Lids, Constructed PVC Frames, Cardboard Boxes
            WHY:  Shields
            WHERE:  Hardware Stores, Department Stores, Thrift Stores, Yard Sales

~General~

-Any striking or tagging area of a weapon must 6 inches or longer.
-All parts of equipment must be larger than an eye socket.
-Counter balances for weapons must be inside the core of the weapon and well covered with foam.
-Cored and/or weighted weapons can only be used when held in the hands; do not throw them.
-Non-striking surfaces of a weapon other than the immediate grip must have at least 1/2 inch of courtesy padding.
-Non-standard materials are generally not allowed. Consult a smith if you have a non-standard weapon from another group which you wish to use.
-NEVER PULL TAPE TIGHT. NEVER SPIRAL WRAP ANYTHING THAT WILL HAVE A STRIKING AREA. This allows the foam to flex and give.

-No foam or PVC should be visible when the weapon is done. This keeps the foam from ripping, and on the rare chance that the PVC breaks, no pieces will go flying. It also helps to keeps the foam protected from the elements, making it last longer.


~Cores~

-Metal, golf club, fiberglass, kite spar, and wood are prohibited materials.
-PVC: Minimum 480 PSI rating on PVC. 1/2 inch PVC is the safest minimum size of PVC to use in combat. The maximum size is 1 1/2 inch; this is due to the weight of the PVC itself. No thin wall PVC. 1/2 inch PVC should only be used for swords under 3 feet.  3/4 inch PVC should only be used for weapons less than 5 feet. 1 inch PVC should only be used for weapons less than 7 feet or shorter heaver weapons. 1 and 1/2 inch PVC should only be used for weapons less than 10 feet. Weapons over 7 feet must have exclusive permission granted to them by the smithing council.
-KITE SPAR (AKA fiberglass shafts or Graphite shafts): ICLUDING GRAPHITE OR FIBERGLASS GOLF CLUBS ARE NOT PERMITTED
-Only one solid piece of core can be used in a weapon; no splinting, joining or joints. With splinting and joints, the weapon cannot flex properly, and so the core may shatter due to the added stress.
-No joints, ropes or multiple cores permitted in or on weapons for safety reasons.
-Filling the core with a wooden dowel or any other substance can be dangerous and is prohibited.

   ~~~~Whipping, Length and Core Thickness~~~~

-Weapons must have less then 67.5 degrees of flex( middle of 45 and 90) when swung to prevent whipping.

    1/2” PVC SCH 40 600(+) PSI        MAX SIZE:    3 ft of PVC

    3/4” PVC SCH 40 400(+) PSI        MAX SIZE:    5 ft of PVC

    1” PVC SCH 40 400(+) PSI        MAX SIZE:    7 ft of PVC


~Foam~
-Any part of the weapon that is not the handle needs to have foam on it. At minimum you should have ½ inch, or one layer, of pipe insulation for non-blade areas, and 2 inches, or two layers, of pipe foam for striking areas.
-Foam should never be pulled tight. Small air pockets are especially good for making weapons soft.
You should only need to cover the same place of a weapon 1 or 2 times, 3 at most. The less tape the softer the blow. Putting any more creates a hard shell of duct tape, making the foam underneath next to useless.

~Tape~

 -NEVER SPIRAL WRAP ANYTHING THAT WILL HAVE A STRIKING AREA. This allows the foam to flex and give.
 -You should only need to cover the same place of a weapon 1 or 2 times, 3 at most. The less tape the softer the blow. Putting any more creates a hard shell of duct tape, making the foam underneath next to useless.
-No foam or PVC should be visible when the weapon is done. This keeps the foam from ripping, and on the rare chance that the PVC breaks, no pieces will go flying. It also helps to keeps the foam protected from the elements, making it last longer.
-The striking area of the weapon should be designated with a different color then the rest of the weapon. This is for safety, so you know where to hit people, and let others know where on the weapon they can expect to be killed by.

~Handles~

-Must be covered in tape
-Any metal counter balancing must be covered by foam and must have no edges or points.
(NOTE: Handles are the only area that should have extra weight added to it.)

~Blades~

-All parts of the weapon must be larger than an eye socket.
-The foam should extend a minimum of 2 inches past the "tip" of the PVC. A minimum of 2 inches of padding between core and “blade” is mandatory, with more than that encouraged.
-Blades must be designated by a stripe of alternate color tape.
-The foam of a blade should not be able to twist significantly when turned using thumb and finger or when swung.
(NOTE: Small air pockets in the blades are especially good for making weapons soft.)

~Tips~

-An extra compression chamber of 2-4 inches in size at the tip of a weapon in addition to the minimum foam can dramatically reduce the impact of a firm thrust.
-Building air pockets into impact zones provides room for compression. Make sure to ventilate air pockets, as an unventilated air-pocket will eventually rupture under pressure. That rupturing may result in damage to the weapon. A few pin holes allows the air pocket to breathe, collapsing the impact zone and dispersing the force of the impact.



~Pole-arms~

-Any striking or tagging area of a weapon must be longer then 12 inches.
-1  ft of handle bellow the striking area must have a 1/2 inch courtesy padding.
(NOTE: Having a handle completely covered in a courtesy padding can help preventive injury due to extra PVC being exposed)

~Free standing foam structure/Axes, Hammers, ext.~

-Must not have any PVC joints or splints
(NOTE: Use foam and tape to build freestanding foam structures to support the heads of hammers and ax like weapons)

~Shields~

-The face must be camp-mat foam or softer and the rim must be padded.
-Only one shield permitted at a time, and it must be strapped to nowhere but the forearm and/or hand.
-You can have straps and buckles, but keep them streamlined to prevent catching.
-You cannot be equipped with a shield if you are also equipped with armor of any kind.

~Armor~

-The entire surface of the armor must be cardboard or softer.
-Armor must be covered with at least 50% duct tape.
-Armor can not extend more then three inches past the joint of the limb its attached, in either direction on the long axis when it is bent at ninety degrees, and may not extend more then a total of three inches away from the width of the limb. if the armor exceeds these dimensions in width it becomes an arm shield, if in length it is illegal
-Max allowed size of holes in armor is 2 inches.
-Armor can only attach to: the forearm/hand area, the upper arm area, the hip to knee area, the knee to foot area.
-You can only equip two pieces of armor at any one time. The same arm may be equipped with both a weapon and armor.
-You cannot have two pieces of armor on the same limb
-You cannot be equipped with armor if you are also equipped with a shield of any kind.
(NOTE: When armor or a shield breaks it must be removed and dropped, armor should be constructed to facilitate this.)
-A single piece of Fore-arm+hand armor cannot be worn with any other piece of armor, and the armored player cannot wield 2 mellee attacking weapons at the same time

-Fore-arm armor automatically includes the associated hand wether it is covered or not.

 

~Throwing Weapons~

-Throwing weapons must not have any “detectable” core. This means that you can squish the weapon or (if applicable) bend it without any interference from the core.
-You cannot weight a throwing weapon.
-A throwing weapon must be 1 ft in length to use as a melee weapon.
-Lump, rock, or pill-like throwing weapons need to be larger than 5 inches

~Punching Weapons~

-No "Punching" Weapons are Allowed.
-No attaching any weapon to your arm via ropes, straps or sleeves. A mellee weapon must be held in the hand.
Any weapon designed to be used in a "punching" manner is prohibited



~Flails~

-Flails are prohinited

..........................Misc. Smith Rules..........................

-Before a weapon can be used in combat is must be approved by at least two smiths.
-The foam on a weapon should not be able to twist significantly when turned using thumb and finger or when swung.
-Weapons that fit into or take up multiple types of weapons must meet the requirements for all the fit into.
-No foam or PVC should be visible when the weapon is done. This keeps the foam from ripping, and on the rare chance that the PVC breaks, no pieces will go flying. It also helps to keeps the foam protected from the elements, making it last longer.
 -You are not advised to use weapons that you find hard to lift or swing. It is difficult to control comparatively large weapons and can cause harm to both you and other fighters.

..........................Smith Ranks..........................

~Novice: Anyone who has built one or more pieces of equipment with a Journeyman-Ranked smith has recieved some amount of training and is thus considered a novice.

Requirements: Build at least one piece of equipment with the help of a Journeyman ranked smith.

~Apprentice: Each apprentice needs to be able to build legal versions of most types of weapon to demonstrate his or her knowledge of how the weapon should be built. Once this is accomplished, a journeyman smith is approached to learn under (a journeyman is considered a Master when he teaches an apprentice). The apprentice is then responsible to learn what he can from the journeyman and increase his skill and knowledge in weapon making and checking.

This Apprenticeship begins when a journeyman has seen all of the legal and qualified requirements for apprentice rank and accepted the responsibility for completing the apprentice's education.

Apprenticeship lasts for 6 months, during which time the apprentce and journeyman work together to create 6 pieces of equipment which far surpass qualification requirements. These are to be completed no faster than 1/week and no slower than 1/month. It is during this time period that the journeyman is charged with bringing the apprentice up to the level of quality and knowledge shared by those of journeyman rank.

Requirements: Well made weapons from at least 4 different weapon classes: sword, dagger, great sword, axe, pole arm, staff, spear, bludgeon, shield, armor, exotic and must meet the following categories weapon builds.

A two handed cored weapon

A one handed cored weapon

A throwing weapon

A weapon that uses bent PVC

A shield

A weapon with free-standing foam structure

A properly balanced weapon.

~Journeyman: To attain the rank of journeyman an apprentice must demonstrate a desired level of weapon safety and quality. This desired level must be above and beyond the minimal level of weapon making. After successfully completing an Apprenticeship under a current Journeyman they must present piece of equipment to the Tapesmith Council as an example of their capability. They must then be voted in by a majority of journeymen smiths.

Requirements: A promotion to this rank is nominated by completing an apprenticeship, proposed by presenting a work of art to the Tapesmith Council, and confirmed by majority vote from the existing Journeymen.

~Master: Once someone attains the rank of apprentice smith he may select a journeyman smith to learn under. This journeyman smith is given the honorary title of master. A master smith must strive to teach their apprentice and pass on all knowledge they possess. The master must also attempt to learn from the apprentice to increase his own knowledge and understanding on making weapons. It is truly said, “The best way to learn is to teach.”

Requirements: Any Journeyman is potentially a master. A master smith strives to teach apprentices and pass on all of the knowledge they possess. The master also attempts to learn from the apprentice to increase his own knowledge and understanding on making weapons.

..........................To Become A Smith..........................
All you must do to become a smith is to express interest in constructing you own weapons to any smiths and go over the smithing regulations of our field. We often have smith meets where you can work on your ranks and build weapons. Most Journeyman ranked Smiths are happy to make an appointment with anyone intereseted for a private crafting seasion.

A word on smithing from kilmy

What we use and where to find it

 
 
SITE UNDER ACTIVE CONSTRUCTION!!!